Raspberry Galaxy: characteristics, features of cultivation
Not so long ago, gardeners and homeowners got the opportunity to enjoy a new raspberry variety - Galaxy. The most amazing thing is that it does not look like familiar bushes, but resembles a tree, although it is not. Let's find out more about the main characteristics, the rules for planting and caring for this raspberry.
There is no exact data on the origin of the Galaxy variety. It is assumed that its author was V.V. Kichina (1937–2009) from the All-Russian Institute for Gardening and Nursery Selection and Technology — Doctor of Biological Sciences, Professor, Honored Scientist, author of many large-fruited raspberry varieties. Most likely, among them were hybrid forms, including the Galaxy.
Important! Although the galaxy is called a raspberry tree, in fact, this is just a standard method of growing shrubs.
Description and characteristic
The galaxy can be characterized by the description given by sellers:
- The height of the bush is up to 2 m, a tree-like form, with a stem, not spreading, compact.
- Shoots are well formed, they are strong, thick, and are not bearing. There are up to 5 root shoots and about 9 can grow from sleeping buds. In the spring they are green, then blush.
- It is considered a mid-early variety, repairing (fruiting on the branches of this year), according to some reports, semi-repairing: in the first year, berries ripen in the upper part of the annual shoot, in the second year in the lower part.
- The leaves are green, pinnate, composed of 3 leaves, there are up to 45 pieces on 1 shoot, growth lasts about a month.
- It blooms lightly, from the top to the bottom of the shoot alternately. The flowers are large, the sepals are long, blooming in June.
- Suitable for growing in all regions.
Such data are confirmed by a few reviews of the variety.
Advantages and disadvantages
- The advantages of raspberries Galaxy include:
- high yield;
- fruiting stability;
- satisfactory frost resistance;
- a well-developed root system contributes to high survival during transplantation;
- disease resistance;
- good taste;
- nice appearance;
- large berries;
- strong branches withstand bad weather conditions;
- universal use of fruits.
- The disadvantages of the variety:
- poor tolerance of excess and lack of moisture;
- poor keeping quality;
- low transportability.
Did you know? Russia is the leader in raspberry production on the world market, supplying over 200 tons of berries.
Drought resistance, frost resistance
The Galaxy does not tolerate drought well, as a result, the crop is smaller, the shoots become weak, the leaves become small, the bush may die. The frost resistance of this raspberry is within the normal range, it tolerates frosts down to -30 ° C, but moisture can evaporate at thaw times from shoots.
A high level of groundwater can create a problem - the root system can freeze even with a slight drop in the mercury column. In severe climatic conditions, shoots must be carefully wrapped for the winter.
Productivity and fruiting
According to gardeners, the average yield from the bush is 4-8 kg and under especially favorable conditions can reach 18 kg. Fruits in large fruits of elongated shape, dark red in color with a glossy sheen weighing up to 18 g, occasionally up to 25 g each.
Berries have a sweet taste and pleasant aroma. The pulp is juicy and dense, red, inside there are small bones. The fruiting period is heterogeneous, from mid-July to mid-August you can harvest up to 5 times. Fruits on young 1.5-meter shoots. It begins to bear fruit fully in the 4th year of life.
Properly planted raspberry bushes will provide a good harvest.
You can plant the Galaxy in the spring, however, it is preferable to do this in the fallThe most suitable time lasts from mid-September to mid-October. Then the plant can prepare for winter and start growing in time in spring. However, in regions where temperatures below -30 ° C are possible in winter, it is better to postpone planting in the spring.
Important! It is better not to grow the Galaxy in the same place for more than 8 years.
Choosing the right place
For planting, slopes in the north, east or west are best suited with sandy loam soil and an acidity level of 4.5–6.5 pH. This arrangement will protect the bushes from spring overheating and freezing after the thaw. Groundwater should not be closer than 1 m to the surface, the best distance is 1.5 m.
Selection and preparation of planting material
Raspberry seedlings have the following requirements:
- they should be sold in specialized retail outlets or nurseries;
- they must have a healthy appearance;
- roots should not be overdried;
- purchased seedlings must be transported tied, laid out along the sides, which must be insulated for softening;
- for transportation purposes, the roots of seedlings should be watered and tied in a bag.
The land needs to be cleared of weeds, fertilizers (6-12 kg of manure or peat per 1 m² of area). If the soil is too acidic, then you need to add 2–4 kg of limestone or dolomite flour per 1 m² of territory. It is necessary to plant in even rows with a distance of about 2 m between them.
Pits in rows are dug after 70 cm, the depth is 40 cm. Peat or humus is poured into the bottom of the pit before planting, the seedling is lowered at an angle of 30 °, sprinkled with earth, trampled. When the planting is over, under 1 bush it is necessary to pour 1.5–2 liters of water and sprinkle around peat.
In order not to overdo it with watering, it is recommended to remove soil near the bush to the depth of the palm and squeeze it in a fist. If a lump forms, there is no need to water it, no - pour 2 liters of water per 1 bush. To preserve moisture, it is very useful to mulch the soil around peat. Usually, you need to water when it has not rained for 15 days. Good results are given by the drip irrigation method.
Nitrofoska, ammofoska, ammonium nitrate or urea in the amount of 40-60 g per 1 m² is recommended for top dressing. They can be replaced with organic fertilizers or used in parallel with organic. As an option - a mullein shovel, diluted in a bucket of water with the addition of a large spoon of urea or saltpeter, this mixture is poured 1 liter per bush.
Manure is applied once every 2-3 years at the rate of 2-3 buckets per 1 m². Potassium chloride is added annually at the rate of 30-50 g per 1 m². Foliar top dressing consists in spraying with a 0.2% solution of urea with the addition of trace elements. Around the shrub, weeds must be weeded regularly. The variety needs pruning last year's shoots. In late May - early June, shoots must be removed, and seven should be left from the total number of substitution shoots.
For trimming purposes, the thickest and thinnest branches are removed. To make raspberries grow better, they tie it to a trellis or pegs. In the process of forming a bush, 2 weeks after planting, you need to pinch the top by 10-15 cm. It is also recommended to trim the root shoot weakening the plant with a shovel.
Harvesting and storage
Harvest galaxies are harvested for 1 month in 4-5 sets. Berries are harvested fully ripe, the exception is the need for transportation over long distances. In this case, they should be slightly immature. It is necessary to control the degree of ripening of berries no later than every other day.
It is necessary to collect raspberries in the morning or in the evening when there is no dew and the sun does not fry. Tearing raspberries, leave a 1 cm long stalk on the berry so that the presentation remains longer. If you do not plan to store the berries, you can collect them without a stalk.
Important! The capacity of the box for storing or transporting raspberries should not exceed 2 kg, otherwise it will be remembered. The longer the distance transported, the smaller should be the capacity of the box.
For transportation, berries are covered with paper, the boxes are covered with a plywood lid and loaded into refrigerators. Keep the crop in a cool dark place. So, at a temperature of 0 ° C and a relative humidity of 90%, the berries will remain fresh for up to 7 days.
Depending on the region, it is necessary to prepare for winter at the end of September or at the beginning of October: get out around, water, pest, remove raspberry shoots from the trellis and bend gently to the ground to the height of the snow cover, which is usually observed in winter. It is important not to break the strong branches.
You can multiply the Galaxy in the following ways:
- Lignified offspring. In September, annual lignified processes at a distance of 30 cm from the main bush are dug up, preserving 12-centimeter roots. Those who have no signs of disease are selected. Leaves break off them.
- Green offspring. In spring, choose a green offspring 10–20 cm high with no signs of disease at a distance of 40 cm from the main bush, dig it out, put it on a bed, and plant it in the main place in autumn.
- Root cuttings. 40 cm away from the main bush, a root is excavated from the ground with branches with a diameter of 2 mm, cut into 10-centimeter pieces with 2 buds, which are planted. This method is suitable for the propagation of diseased plants, the stems of which are subject to destruction or dead.
- Green cuttings. In May or June, you need to cut off shoots with at least 2 leaves and 8 cm in length, soak in a 0.1% solution of “Heteroauxin”, plant in a greenhouse for 4 weeks, transplant to a permanent place.
- By dividing the bush. The bush is divided into 4-5 parts so that on each part there are at least 2 healthy young branches and a developed root system.
Diseases and Pests
It is known that raspberries can be damaged by about 160 various harmful insects and pathogens.
Dangerous diseases are:
- Virus infection ring spotting - to prevent the spread of destroy all mutilated branches that do not meet the standard. There is no cure for viruses.
- Witch's broom (growth) - the pathogen is mycoplasma, manifested in the appearance of thin branches, low growth of bushes, the absence of ovaries after flowering. Affected bushes must be destroyed.
- Leaf curl - has a viral nature. The leaves are covered with tubercles, twisted with a tube, the berries are absent or grow small and hard.
- Viral Mosaic - spots, dots, faded streaks.
- Phytophthora (root rot) - the roots die, new shoots cease to grow, the leaves turn yellow, fall off. It is impossible to fight, the plant is subject to destruction, and a new bush in this place should not be planted for several years.
- Didimella (purple spotting) - manifested by blue spots that darken, the plant dies. To fight before budding, a lime-sulfur broth with a strength of 0.7 °, a 1% preparation of DNOC, is used, sprayed with 1.5% Bordeaux liquid before flowering.
- Botritis (gray rot) - the tops of the stems begin to wither, darken, rot, spores are visible on them, mold forms on the berries. For the fight using fungicides. All affected parts must be removed.
- Anthracnose - gray dots, gradually growing into spots with purple edges, instead of which holes form on the leaves, and ulcers and cracks on the shoots. Before the buds bloom, use 1% DNOC, 2% Nitrafen. When fruiting has ended, use 0.3% “Kaptan”, 0.7% “Tsineb”.
Less commonly, the galaxy is threatened by powdery mildew, wilting shoots, fusarium wilt, bacterial root cancer, stem cancer.As a preventive measure, it is necessary to comply with the measure when applying nitrogen fertilizers, do not plant the bushes too close to each other, do not grow raspberries in the same place for more than 8 years.
Did you know? Raspberries are not only different shades of red, but also yellow, black, purple, white. Black Raspberry is most beneficial.
Among the pests are the most dangerous:
- Raspberry beetle - eats flowers, young leaves, the larvae eat the fruit and drupes, the berries become wormy. For the fight, 0.3% “Fufanon” or “Chlorophos” in the same concentration is used.
- Raspberry fly - a pest that can kill up to 1/2 new shoots. In May, she lays eggs on the tips of the stem, hatched larvae eat away the middle. They fight it like a raspberry beetle.
- Raspberry mosquito (shoot gall midge) - their larvae, which hatch from eggs in cracks in the cortex, destroy the core of shoots. A damaged shoot also becomes vulnerable to fungi. For prevention, it is necessary to trim thick shoots, mulch the soil. The methods of struggle are the same.
- Flowerbeard (raspberry-strawberry weevil) - black beetles that appear in April-May, eating flowers and young leaves. The methods of struggle are similar.
- Aphid - in addition to the fact that this pest sucks the juice from the plant, it carries the mosaic virus. Before the buds open, you need to use 0.5% or 1% DNOC, 2% Nitrafen. Before the beginning of flowering and after the harvest, 0.3% Chlorofos is used.
- Cicadas - tolerates mycoplasma - the pathogen of growth. When nymphs begin to hatch from the eggs, it is necessary to use a 0.25% emulsion of 30% Karbofos.
- Spider mite - Symptoms are dots, cobwebs, twisted leaves, yellowing, drying out. After harvesting, use 0.3% Karbofos, 1% colloidal sulfur.
- Raspberry tick - manifests itself as oily spots of pale green color, ugly leaves. When the buds formed, use 0.2% "Antio", a lime-sulfur broth with a strength of 1.5 °, and after 10 days - with a strength of 0.25 °.
In order not to have to deal with pests, follow the cultivation agricultural technique and crop rotation, timely thin out bushes.
Thus, among the standard varieties of large-fruited raspberries, the Galaxy variety stands out. Although it began to spread recently and little is known about its origin, popularity is growing every day thanks to reviews from grateful summer residents. Try to grow a galaxy, and you can see the virtues yourself.