Repairing large-fruited raspberries Eurasia: productivity and ripening
Among the various varieties of raspberries, remontans are becoming increasingly preferable for cultivation in personal plots. Large-fruited Eurasia is one of such varieties. Excellent ripening of berries even in short summer conditions, high productivity and good taste qualities made it popular among private gardeners. About the features of the variety, along with a description of the planting and care technology, read further in the review.
Raspberry Tree Eurasia
Eurasia - the representative of the repair varieties, that is, giving 2 crops per year. The first can be collected in mid-summer, and the second - closer to the fall. The variety is characterized by early maturity and delicious large-fruited berries.
Registration of Eurasia in the State Register of the Russian Federation was carried out in 2008 after the corresponding variety tests. The seeds themselves were first obtained back in 1994 by a team of breeders at the All-Russian Institute of Horticulture and Nursery. In the cross were involved various repair varieties from Europe and Asia. Perhaps due to this diversity, breeders have named a new variety - Eurasia.
Did you know? Raspberries can be not only a bush, but also a tree - such an interesting definition refers to standard varieties. They have one dense shoot that branches, forming several lateral branches, which becomes like a tree.
Appearance of the bush, characteristics of berries, fruiting time
Eurasia is a universal variety and is perfect for fresh consumption, as well as preparing blanks for the winter: stewed fruit, juices, preserves and jams.
Like all repair varieties, Eurasia has a number of typical characteristics:
- Fruiting begins on the shoots of the first year of growth, but can also occur on two-year-old shoots.
- The bush is considered medium-sized.
- The height of the shoots does not exceed 1.4 m - this means that it is not necessary to tie up the bushes and install the trellis. Shoots are formed not too abundantly - no more than 7 pcs. at one root.
- The stems of the first year are green, up to 3 mm thick in diameter. By autumn, the shoots are getting dark. In the second year, they are lignified and acquire a bark of a light brown hue. Shoots are characterized by a slight pubescence.
- Landings of Eurasia are not dense, and it is convenient for caring for plants.
- Fruiting occurs on small lateral branches. Raspberry leaves of a standard green color, rather large, with a wrinkled leaf plate.
- The variety is characterized by high drought tolerance, moderate resistance to heat, frost and disease.
- Resistance to pests in the repairing varieties is due to the fact that they enter fruiting later than the classic varieties, to which the life cycle of the main pests is adapted. Therefore, by the time ovaries are formed on the repairing varieties, the pest development cycle has already been completed, and there is simply no one to attack the plantation.
- Medium-sized flowers have a slight pubescence. 5 weeks after flowering, conical berries are formed on the bushes.
- Fruit color - homogeneous, dark raspberry. Sweet and sour flesh with a classic raspberry flavor does not have a pronounced aroma. The sugar content does not exceed 7.1% and this is an average sugar content. The tasting grade score is rated 3.9 out of 5 possible points.
- The yield of the variety is not too high - only 2.6 kg per bush, while the average for the same varieties is 4-5 kg per bush. The yield declared by manufacturers on the site is 130–140 c / ha.
Video: Raspberry Repairing Grade Eurasia
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
- Eurasia has all the main advantages of repair varieties:
- fruiting begins already in the first year after planting;
- good resistance to frost and drought;
- lack of need for shelter shoots for the winter;
- the possibility of growing in regions with a short summer;
- high resistance to diseases and pests;
- simplicity in leaving;
- the possibility of harvesting 2 times per season;
- the variety has large, dense, transportable berries with good taste.
- The disadvantages of the variety:
- tastes of Eurasia are not too high; tasting grade assessment - only 3.9 points;
- productivity cannot be called high; rather, it is average.
For raspberries, it is also necessary to observe crop rotation and plant it only after crops that do not have the same pests and diseases. If there is only a site with clay soil, try planting canola or cereals on it at the end of summer - they will collect the nitrogen and other minerals present in the soil, and the roots will make the soil more loose.
And when digging a plot, rapeseed or grains will be mixed together with the soil and will serve as excellent organic fertilizers in the spring. Plowing depth - 40 cm.
Plan for planting bushes in the spring. It may be May or April after the threat of soil frost has passed. In the southern regions, raspberries can be planted in autumn.
Planting is planned in the most well-lit part of the garden - the shadow not only reduces productivity, but also makes the berries less sweet. On the north side, the site should be covered by buildings or trees from the cold northerly winds.
The site itself must be dug up before landing. Plants are planted in a trench way with a row spacing of about 1 m. When planting, organic fertilizers are applied.The application rate is 2-3 buckets of humus per 1 m² of soil.
Ash is added to it, as a source of potassium (a glass on a bucket) and superphosphate in the same dosage. After planting, the tops of the plants are cut off. This will stimulate root growth, rooting and further vegetation.
Did you know? According to the annals, the first raspberry garden in Russia was created by Prince Yuri Dolgoruky. The garden was very large - so much so that it seemed to even have bears in it.
Raspberries grow beautifully in sunny areas. She also needs to provide excellent drainage. If the soil is clayey, dense and does not pass water well, there are several ways to solve the problem:
- dilute it with organic fertilizers when planting;
- choose another site;
- create a raised bed;
- organize the slope of the plot for natural water flow.
Please note that clay soils are poor in organic matter. There it is about 2%, so fertilizing in this area is necessary. You will also have to fertilize the bushes more often in the process of growth and development.
Provide a soil acidity level of 6.0–6.5 pH. If there are many weeds on the territory or the site was used for growing other crops, then the soil is acidified. For deoxidation, lime or dolomite flour is added at least one month before planting.
Did you know? Modern Russia — The largest supplier of raspberries in the world. It produces 125,000 tons of berries per year.
Landing and care
Planting is possible by seedlings, dividing the bush or cuttings. Raspberries have creeping rhizomes, so new shoots may appear on it in different places. This shoot can be separated along with part of the rhizome and transplanted to a permanent place as a new bush.
If you cut off part of the annual shoot, it can be planted in nutrient soil and grow a new plant. This method is called seedling propagation. It takes about 1 month to root the seedling, and then the plant can be planted at a constant place of growth.
If raspberries do not grow on the plot, then most likely you will order plants in the nursery. The resulting shoot must have a powerful root system and a height of at least 0.8 m.Immediately before planting, its roots are soaked in warm water for 1 hour to allow them to absorb moisture after transportation.
The usual way of landing:
- Prepare pits up to 40 cm deep and 30–40 cm wide. Provide a distance of about 40–50 cm between them. There should be at least 100–120 cm between the individual rows.
- Mix the excavated soil with organic fertilizers.
- Fill it back in the hole.
- Install a raspberry bush on top.
- Start to fill up the hole, making sure that the plant in it is at the same depth as it grew before.
- Cut off the tops (about 20 cm) immediately after planting to stimulate new growth.
Watering begins in early spring, as soon as the first leaves appear, and continue until the beginning of autumn. Stop immediately after the last harvest. Watering frequency - 1-2 times a week, depending on the speed of soil drying.
A month after planting, fertilizing begins. The best option is top dressing with balanced fertilizers, in which nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are in equal proportions, for example, 10 × 10 × 10. Frequency of application - every 7-14 days, in accordance with the instructions on the package. Organic fertilizers are applied repeatedly at the beginning of the next vegetative season in the amount of 2 buckets per 1 m² of land.
Pest and Disease Control
Raspberry bushes can hurt and be attacked by pests. The majority of diseases arise due to improper care: excessive watering, thickened plantings, and other factors. To avoid this, follow basic growing requirements.
Important! Spraying bushes whose berries are at the ripening stage is not recommended. Toxins do not have time to disintegrate before the harvest ripens.
The main diseases of raspberry:
- Raspberry Dwarf - The most common viral disease. It is transmitted by insects from infected plants to uninfected ones. The main symptoms: stunting growth lag, yellowing of leaves, ugly deformed fruits. Infected plants must be destroyed after the detection of the disease. The only way to prevent this is to plant only proven, clean seedlings. Some varieties of raspberries are immune to the virus, so you should choose them.
- Gray mold - fungal disease. Its symptoms are shaggy gray spots on leaves and fruits. Infection begins during flowering, exacerbated by cool and humid weather. To combat the disease, spraying with a solution of Bordeaux liquid 1% is used. Keep in mind that mold-resistant varieties do not exist, and it is better to spray fungicides when the infection has not yet occurred. This will help protect the bushes at the initial stage of growth.
- Anthracnose - fungal disease. Its symptoms: a solid gray spot at the top of the berry. The problem appears at the time of harvest ripening. Treatment - spraying with copper-based drugs.
- Rust - It is also a fungal disease and, like other diseases, is treated by spraying with a solution of Bordeaux liquid 1%. The main symptom of the disease is characteristic orange-brown spots on the leaves. The condition is aggravated if there is cold, humid weather.
- Mosaic virus aphids and other insects carry. The disease appears on the leaves in the form of yellow spots. They gradually increase in size, which leads to the death of leaves. The fight against the disease begins with the destruction of pests.
Insects often attack thickened landings - suitable conditions are created there for their vital activity, so control this parameter by timely thinning out of shoots.
The main pests:
- Aphids - small insects of green or dark color, settling on leaves and stems in large colonies. They are destroyed by spraying with a solution of insecticidal soap. There are no special requirements for the composition of the solution; you just need it to be soapy enough.
- Raspberry beetle - a nutty insect that feeds on buds.To combat it, spraying is used with Karbofos.
- Spider mites - look like small spiders. After them, numerous small spots and small cobwebs remain on the leaves. The spots grow, then dry, which leads to the death of the leaf. To combat them, they are sprayed with special acaricidal drugs.
The trellis is a support, which consists of 2 poles and a wire stretched between them - it is necessary to provide support to the stems. For stability, the base of the trellis is deepened into the ground to a length of 0.8 m. The height should be about 1.5 m above the ground in order to organize the garter of the shoots. The wire is pulled in the center in a row, then adding 1 or 2 rows along the top of the trellis. The distance between the supporting poles should be about 1 m.
Unlike classic varieties, remontant varieties are compact, robust shoots and average height. Therefore, they usually do not need to install trellis.
Pruning and wintering
Pruning - A mandatory event in the care of plants. When the bushes are too thick, the branches compete for sunlight. As a result, those leaves and fruit buds that are in the shade die. This means that you will lose part of the crop. Cropping is the most effective way to avoid this.
To correctly trim the bush, you need to understand its growth cycle. Raspberries have perennial roots and biennial shoots. In the first year, the repairing varieties bear fruit in the fall in small quantities. And in the second year, those buds that were laid, but did not bear fruit, will give a summer crop.
Having bereaved, they begin to age. With the approach of autumn, their leaves turn yellow and these shoots begin to fade, so you need to cut them. It is advisable to do this in winter when the bushes are at rest.
Rules for pruning raspberries:
- remove all dead and aging branches;
- inspect the row visually and remove all the shoots that are knocked out of it far to the side;
- cut weak shoots with a diameter of about 1–1.2 mm.
For winter, repairing varieties do not require shelter and winter “as is”. If you think you need to do something else, then you can cover with a mulching layer of aisle as soon as the soil freezes.
The damage to the bushes is not caused by frost, but by the alternation of frost and thaw - when the thawed soil freezes again, it begins to push the roots out of the soil, damaging them. Mulch plays the role of an insulating layer, preventing a sharp change in soil temperature. They clean it as soon as warm, frost-free weather is established.
Harvesting and transportation
Since the quality of raspberries quickly decreases after harvest, it is important to sell or process it on time. Maturity is determined by the fact that the berries acquire a uniform raspberry color and are easily separated from the legs.
Important! The preservation of raspberries depends on how well it was chilled. At room temperature, the berries quickly mold.
Plan your pick for the morning and keep in mind that berries should not be picked after rain - the weather should be dry. Harvest immediately in plastic containers or boxes with a volume of 250-400 g. Berries will be stored for no more than a week. During this time, they can either be eaten fresh, or cooked for the winter and canned in one of many ways: in the form of stewed fruit, juice, jam, and in other ways. Freezing is also possible.
For transportation, the berries must be dense, evenly colored, without rot or damage. If you cut them together with a piece of the stalk, then their shelf life will increase. Transporting such berries is also quite convenient: they deteriorate less during the trip. Containers with them are placed directly in the refrigerator car to immediately go to the destination.
So, the cultivation of remont raspberry varieties has many advantages.They are less susceptible to attack by pests, yield 2 crops per year and are unpretentious in maintenance. Following the simple rules for caring for plants, you are sure to get a good harvest of tasty and healthy berries