Repairant raspberries Autumn Beauty - grade description
Repairing raspberries grow in many gardens of our country, bringing an autumn harvest of tasty and healthy berries. The Autumn Beauty variety has its advantages, the description of which, with a detailed description and the basics of agricultural technology, is given below.
Repairing raspberries Autumn beauty
The compact size and quality of the berries brought the Autumn Beauty a well-deserved popularity among gardeners. To choose a variety suitable for specific tasks, you should study its features.
Did you know? A bee swarm, “located” next to the raspberry, will increase crop productivity by 60–100%.
Appearance, features of bushes, size of berries of the variety
Being a deciduous shrub, the plant shows the following external signs:
- height - 1-1.5 m;
- form - compact or slightly spreading;
- shoot thickness - medium;
- spikes are absent (some sources indicate that spikes are present on the bottom of the shoots);
- overgrowth formation: from insignificant to intensive (according to various sources);
- berries weighing 4-6 g;
- the shape of the berries is elongated, the color is ruby;
- the taste is sweet.
Autumn ripening occurs in September, and most berries ripen almost simultaneously. Average yield, with proper care, up to 5-7 kg from one bush.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
The advantages of the repairing varieties are harvesting in the year of planting, the possibility of picking berries in summer and autumn, and the absence of damage to berries by pests in the fall.
- The main advantages of the Autumn Beauty variety are:
- high productivity;
- good resistance to diseases and pests;
- berries are easily removed;
- universal purpose of the fruit.
The disadvantages of the variety include low keeping quality and poor tolerance of transportation.
Video: raspberry varieties Autumn Beauty
Repair raspberries require adherence to basic agricultural practices that are different from caring for ordinary summer varieties.
A plant can produce two crops, however, many gardeners prefer to form a plant by pruning only for autumn harvest. In this case, it is possible to obtain a larger number of large berries than a plant with summer and autumn ripening.
Culture requires good illumination and nutrition, the absence of a close level of groundwater from the surface of the planting soil. The minimum distance from the water to the soil surface should be 1.5 m.
Plants should be located as far away from tomatoes, potatoes and strawberries as the cultures have “common” pests and the same diseases.
The culture can grow in one place for more than 10 years, but the optimal period, before the characteristic "soil fatigue", is 6–8 years.
The preferred soil type is fertile and light, acidic soil should be neutralized with limestone or fluff (4-6 kg per 1 m²). It is advisable to fertilize the earth by adding 2 buckets of humus, superphosphate and potassium sulfate (1 cup of each mineral fertilizer) to 1 m² of soil.
Landing and care
Planting raspberry seedlings is possible in spring and autumn. The time is considered optimal from mid-September to mid-October, then raspberries have time to take root well. The combination of autumn humidity and moderately warm air provides a good survival rate. Spring is often arid and hot, especially in the southern regions, which can greatly complicate the process.
How to choose good seedlings
To get high-quality planting material that exactly matches the desired variety is best in special nurseries or proven garden centers.
Important! A seedling with an open root system should be kept wrapped in a damp cloth before planting!
Signs of a healthy seedling are:
- developed fibrous root system;
- root length - 15–20 cm;
- matured 1-3 shoots 5–8 mm thick.
Before planting, seedlings should be shortened to 20-30 cm and freed from leaves. If possible, the roots are dipped in a mixture of mullein and clay, in which it is recommended to add the drug "Kornevin."
You can plant raspberries in trench or bush methods. Repairing varieties are usually planted in separate pits, placing them in a row. In this case, the distance between the rows should be 1.5-2 m, and between the plants in the row an interval of 50–70 cm will be sufficient.
Did you know? Red Raspberries Provide Anthocyanins — organic compounds that are also responsible for the violet, black and pink colors of plants. The hue of the pulp depends on the acidity of the soil and may change as the fruit ripens.
The average depth of the pit is 60 cm with dimensions of 60 × 60 cm, which is slightly larger than for ordinary raspberries (due to the more massive root system, which is closer to the core type).
The landing process is as follows:
- At the bottom of the pit I form a cone of soil.
- On an elevation, the root system of the seedling is straightened.
- The plant is covered with soil and gently rammed to the level of the root neck.
- Planting is abundantly watered, then the trunk circle is mulched.
Watering and feeding
A sufficient amount of moisture is extremely important for the successful cultivation of raspberries, but stagnation of water can cause decay of all parts of the bush and the appearance of various diseases. In the phase of flowering and subsequent fruiting, the soil should be moist to a depth of 30 cm.
On average, a plant is watered once a week, and in a dry summer it may be needed even 3 times. It is advisable to use standing water. In autumn, it is necessary to carry out water-charging irrigation, which will help the plant cope with winter cold.
Important! Mulching the plantings with humus, peat or mowed grass will help preserve moisture and protect the soil from drying out.
Timely dressing is the key to an abundant raspberry crop. The most sensitive culture to the content of nitrogen and potassium in the earth. If the planting pit was well fertilized, then the first three seasons of vegetation, the plant will need only nitrogen fertilizing, which is applied in the spring at the rate of 80-100 g per m².
To increase productivity, during the ripening period, mullein diluted 4-5 times can be used. One bucket of such a solution is enough to feed 4-6 bushes. To ensure the harvest of next year, you should fertilize the plant in September, when flower buds are laid. To do this, dig furrows 20 cm deep, stepping back from the bush about 30 cm, and add 40 g of potassium salt and 60 g of superphosphate (per 1 bush).
Autumn beauty has a fairly compact size and, in principle, can be grown without garter. However, a plentiful harvest can bend the shoots of the plant, and the additional support will help to care for and collect raspberries with great comfort.
If raspberries are planted in separate bushes, you can tie it to a stake driven into the center. The shoots are fixed in two places: at an altitude of 50-60 cm from the surface of the earth and stepping back from the top 15-20 cm. A fan garter is also used, in which several stakes are driven between plants and the shoots are tied in the form of a fan on different sides.
Trellis is used for tape planting. For this design, the stakes are driven in at intervals of 5–10 m and 2 transverse bars are fixed on them, departing 50–60 cm and 120–140 cm from the ground. The lower bar is made about 30–40 cm long, and the upper one is 70–90 cm. A wire is fixed on these planks, on which shoots are then fixed.Tapestry provides better lighting of berries, simplifies their collection.
Pest and Disease Control
The variety is quite resistant to most diseases and pests, but errors in agricultural technology can cause the following problems:
Viral diseases spread quickly to raspberries. The optimal method of control, in this case, is the removal of the infected specimen, and for prevention it is necessary to fight against pests-carriers.
Aphids, cicadas, ticks and other insects found on raspberries are sprayed with natural products (for example, onion or garlic infusions) or modern insecticides are used (before the flowering phase).
To combat fungal diseases (rust, didimella, anthracnose, etc.), sanitary pruning and spring treatment of shoots with 4% Bordeaux fluid is necessary.
During the growing season, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux fluid, and the treatment is repeated three times:
- with an increase in shoots of 15–20 cm;
- before opening the buds;
- after flowering.
Pruning and wintering
Growing remont raspberries requires special pruning. During the season, excess root shoots are removed to preserve the strength of the plant for a full crop.
Depending on the desired number of fruits, raspberries are cut according to one of the following schemes:
For a successful wintering, the shoots are bent so that a layer of snow protects the kidneys from frost. It is necessary to protect the root collar from possible stagnation of water during the thaw period, for which the soil topography under the plants should be leveled.
Important! Before hibernation, it is necessary to remove leaves from the branches by running along the shoot from bottom to top. If you direct the action from top to bottom, the kidneys in the axils of the leaves will be damaged!
Harvesting and storage of crops, transportation
Berries of the Autumn Beauty do not tolerate transportationTherefore, it is necessary to use them for processing or fresh consumption near the place of cultivation. Harvesting should take place in dry weather, in the morning, without shifting berries from one container to another. Gently take raspberries with three fingers and slightly twist without squeezing.
In the palm of the picker should not be more than 2-3 berries at a time, and the collected raspberries can not be left in the sun. Most often, the berry is removed from the receptacle, but if left, the shelf life will increase slightly. It is recommended to preserve fruits in the refrigerator in the compartment for vegetables and fruits.
Repairing raspberries Autumn beauty is unpretentious in care and gives a high yield of delicious, fragrant berries. When choosing a variety, it should be borne in mind that berries are not subject to transportation over long distances.